The Frank Fold: a reduced version of Hedi Kyle’s Franklin Fold, with an optional cover

As promised last week, here is a slightly simplified version of Hedi Kyle’s Franklin Fold from The Art of the Fold by Hedi Kyle and Ulla Warchol. I call it the Frank Fold, since Frank is a slightly reduced version of Franklin. I have also changed the folding/cutting order to something I find easier to control.

The Frank Fold is one page folded to produce a cover with diagonal pockets on the front and back covers and three four-page spreads.

Note: I did not colour adjust the following images. They were shot in fluctuating natural light in my studio.

Start with a piece of paper with proportions 1:2 (10 x 20 cm or 4 x 8 in for example) laid horizontally in front of you. If your paper has a ‘good’ side —the side you want to show on the opened page spreads when the book is finished— place the paper ‘good’ side down.

All folds should be made with finger pressure only until the book is finished. A bone folder can be used to firmly press the closed book after it is completed.

Fold the paper in half horizontally.

Open the paper flat, rotate 90º, then fold in half vertically. (The fold is at the bottom.)

Rotate 180º (the fold is now at the top), then fold the upper layer in half, matching the cut edge to the fold at the top.

Flip sideways and do the same thing to the second side.

Rotate 90º clockwise so that the cut ends and middle fold are on the right. Open the upper layer to the left.

Fold the bottom right corner up to the middle. I found it was best to fold so that the horizontal and vertical fold lines were still just visible rather than matching the triangle’s edges to those folds exactly.

Flip the paper sideways and re-fold the triangle up and to the right.

Open your paper flat and cut three slits from the edge to the middle fold as shown below.

Fold the upper left corner down and to the right along the left diagonal crease.

Fold the bottom edge up.

Fold the right half of the uppermost layer to the left.

Open the last fold and fold the right edge to just shy of the centre fold in the top layer.

Fold the two-page spread created by the last step to the left.

Fold the left edge of the bottom (cover) layer to the right over the two-page spread. There should be a gap of about 1.5 cm/0.6 in between the edge of the cover and the back edge of the two-page spread. You can tuck the two-page spread into the pocket at the lower left corner at this point or wait until later.

There is another flap lying to the right of the cover/two-page unit. Fold it to the left, then in half to the right to make another two-page spread. Match the left folded edge with the folded edge of the first two-page spread.

Repeat the series of folds with the right half of the paper, reversing folds where necessary.

Ease the book closed. You may need to fiddle the pages a bit to get the spine properly centred. (I was a bit hasty and didn’t measure my cover turn-ins, so the edges of the pockets don’t quite match.)

Once everything is positioned nicely, you can use your bone folder to re-press the folds with the book closed.

Even with fewer pages and changes in cutting and folding, it is still not possible to get everything folded squarely and neatly without the bottoms of the cover turn-ins showing a bit at the bottom. Any uneven edges at the top of the book can be trimmed.

Here’s another view of the Frank Fold from above, this time with the first and last two-page spreads tucked into the inside cover pockets.

I made multiple models trying different papers and sizes. One of the most successful was folded from a scrap of slightly crumpled Thai Unryu.

I made a final version for #areyoubookenough-inbetween.

On initial opening it appears to be a blank book. If you un-tuck the first two-page spread, you begin to see something.

All the content of the book —in this case a printed design— is hidden in between the folds. Here’s the centre spread.

Like all books of this type, the Frank Fold tends to spring open. It needs some sort of cover. There are several covers and slip cases in The Art of the Fold, or you can follow my directions for a protective wrapper.

Or you can make this simple ‘lock’ for the book:

I used 176gsm/65# card stock. The height of the lock is two-thirds the height of the book. The two panels are about 0.3 cm/0.125 in narrower than the page width and the spine is teeny bit wider than the width of the book’s spine when held firmly closed. The cut-out section is cut just outside the fold lines for the spine. The solid upper section of the spine is just a bit shorter than the depth of the fore-edge of the book between the head (top) and the edge of the pocket fold where it crosses the fore-edge turn-in.

This lock/cover for the book also fits the #areyoubookenough theme for the month as the lower ends fit in between the outer and inner layers of the covers.

To remove the lock, grasp the book firmly at the bottom with one hand, gently grip the lock just above the pocket edges at the fore-edge of the book and slide upwards. The lock can be folded flat and stored in between the outer and inner layers of the back cover while the book is being viewed.

If you are working with highly textured materials you may want to reduce the width of the lock to reduce friction.

About Byopia Press

I have been working in the book arts field for more than twenty years, and operating Byopia Press with my husband David since the late 1990s. I began producing artist's books and altered books in 2004.
This entry was posted in artist's books, book arts, bookbinding, DIY, instructions, paper folding and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to The Frank Fold: a reduced version of Hedi Kyle’s Franklin Fold, with an optional cover

  1. Pingback: A Bit of Progress | Byopia Press

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